Reviving the Sacred: The UK’s Ancient Stone Circles

PENZANCE, England — On a gloomy November afternoon, a group of 19 individuals gathered outside the Church of St. Buryan, a medieval parish famous for its towering granite structure.

Clad in rain gear and sturdy boots, the residents of Cornwall were prepared for a unique spiritual journey — not within the church but at a nearby stone circle.

Led by Carolyn Kennett, an astronomer, the group embarked on a 3.2-mile hike to the Boscawen-Ûn stone circle, aiming to observe the full moon's effect on the tallest stone, the only quartz among the circle.

“It would have been lovely to see,” Carolyn remarked, gesturing at the cloudy sky. “But we can still imagine it.”

The hikers, mostly seasoned visitors of Boscawen-Ûn, felt a connection to the sacredness of the site.

“There’s a spiritual essence in these ancient places,” shared Jane Weller, a local resident. “It’s magical enough for me to want to be there.”

The U.K. has around 800 stone circles, remnants from prehistoric times, with Stonehenge being the most renowned. In contrast, Boscawen-Ûn remains less commercialized and more rugged, consisting of 19 upright stones that create a sundial-like structure.

Many of the walkers, like Weller, identify as pagan or spiritually inclined, often seeking alternative forms of spiritual nourishment outside traditional Christianity. With a significant rise in the religiously unaffiliated population, many are now exploring history, folklore, and nature as their spiritual guides.

These stone circles are increasingly viewed as pilgrimage sites. Dating back to the Bronze Age, their exact purposes remain a mystery. Scholars speculate they may have been used for rituals or to mark celestial events.

Cornwall has seen a resurgence of interest in these sites, partly due to community initiatives like the Stone Club, which connects enthusiasts for walks and events, now boasting nearly 3,000 members.

The walkers traversed fields filled with native flora, sharing stories and enjoying the natural beauty around them. Andy, one of the participants, expressed his preference for worshiping in nature instead of a church setting.

The modern pagan movement in the U.K. has gained traction since the mid-20th century, with various groups embracing elements of nature spirituality. However, many participants remain skeptical about traditional pagan rituals, balancing reverence for ancient sites with critical views on contemporary practices.

As the group entered the stone circle, they fell silent, the stillness amplifying the sacred atmosphere. Some walked meditatively around the stones, while Tamsin Floyd, a former nurse, embraced the central quartz pillar, finding comfort in its ancient presence.

Kennett engaged the group with insights from archaeology and astronomy, pondering the site’s history and its potential uses by ancient peoples.

As dusk settled, they began their return journey, enriched by the experience and connection to both the landscape and their ancestors.